Sometimes the first sign that our hair density has changed isn't actually how much hair we're shedding.
It's seeing more scalp.
You might look in the mirror one day and realise your part seems wider than it used to. Maybe you can see more scalp under bright lights, your hair doesn't seem to fall over your part as easily, or photographs suddenly make the change much more obvious.
Your density may have been gradually changing across your hair for some time, but when we begin to see that change through the top of our hair, this is often when it becomes noticeable (and when many people begin to feel concerned).
A widening part is relatively common, but there isn't one single reason it happens. Female pattern hair loss, age-related changes, excessive shedding and a number of medical or scalp conditions can all change the amount of hair we see through the top of the scalp.
So, just like we talked about in I’m Shedding More Hair — What’s Going On?, the first step isn't assuming the worst.
It's noticing what has actually changed.
Has all of your hair become less dense?
One of the first things I would look at if you were sitting in my chair is whether we're seeing a change just through your part, or whether the density of your hair has changed more generally.
Does your ponytail feel smaller? Are you using your hair tie an extra time?
Does your hair feel flatter or less substantial when you style it? Can you see more scalp in other areas as well?
If you've recently experienced a period of increased shedding, you may simply be seeing the result of having fewer hairs on your scalp at that point in time.
This is where our previous article about hair shedding and telogen effluvium is helpful, because increased shedding can create diffuse loss of density across the scalp.
Read: I’m shedding more hair. What's going?
But shedding isn't the only possibility.
What if my part is gradually getting wider?
A gradually widening part is one of the characteristic ways female pattern hair loss can present.
Female pattern hair loss is the most common form of hair loss in women. Unlike the more recognisable pattern we often associate with male hair loss, women commonly notice progressive thinning through the top of the scalp and a widening of the central part, rather than developing a completely bald area.
It also becomes more common as we get older, particularly from midlife onwards, although it can begin earlier. Genetics play an important role and can come from either side of your family.
Why does the hair look thinner?
Something important can happen to the individual hairs themselves.
With female pattern hair loss, affected follicles can gradually miniaturise. Instead of continuing to produce the same thick terminal hair they once did, they begin producing progressively finer hairs.
DermNet describes scalp hairs as normally growing in small groups or “tufts”. With pattern hair loss, those groups can progressively contain fewer substantial hairs, eventually making more scalp visible between them.
This is an important distinction because sometimes we think:
“I lost hair and it just hasn't all grown back.”
But in some types of hair loss, the follicles are still producing hair. The individual hairs are simply becoming finer and providing less coverage than they once did.
From the mirror, the result can look like a wider part.
Is it just a normal part of ageing?
Our hair does change as we age.
Hair growth can slow and some follicles eventually stop producing hair, so some reduction in density can occur over time. Female pattern hair loss also becomes more common with age.
But I wouldn't automatically dismiss a noticeable change as “just ageing.”
If your part is becoming progressively wider, your density has noticeably changed, or you're concerned about what you're seeing, it's worth investigating.
There may be something you can do about it, and determining why your hair is changing gives you much better information about what to do next.
What if I have one completely bald area?
This is different again.
If what you're seeing isn't gradual thinning but a distinct area of complete hair loss, particularly a smooth, round or oval patch, I would recommend having it assessed by a GP or dermatologist.
One possible cause is alopecia areata, an autoimmune condition in which the immune system attacks hair follicles. Its most common presentation is one or more well-defined round or oval areas of hair loss, although alopecia areata can present in other patterns too.
A round bald patch doesn't automatically mean you have alopecia areata, and this isn't something I would try to diagnose from the salon chair.
Localised hair loss can have different causes, and getting the right diagnosis matters because the appropriate treatment depends on what is actually happening.
So when should I speak to someone?
If you're noticing a genuine change in your part or density, I think it's worth mentioning it rather than waiting until it becomes severe.
A dermatologist can distinguish female pattern hair loss from other conditions that can look similar, and earlier diagnosis can matter because some treatments are intended to slow further progression as well as potentially improve growth.
I'd particularly seek professional advice if your hair loss is:
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new or progressing noticeably
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accompanied by significant shedding
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occurring in defined bald patches
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associated with redness, scaling, pain, itching or other scalp changes
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affecting your eyebrows or other areas of your body
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concerning you for any other reason.
Your GP is a perfectly reasonable place to start and can help determine whether blood tests, medical investigation or referral to a dermatologist is appropriate.
What can I do in the meantime?
There are two separate things I think about here:
What can we do about what's causing the change?
And:
What can we do to help you feel good about your hair while we're figuring that out?
Both matter.
Look after your scalp and existing hair
Healthy scalp care isn't a treatment for every cause of thinning hair, but looking after the environment your hair is growing from is a sensible part of your overall routine.
At Stella, we recommend the Genyve Scalp Care range to cleanse, exfoliate, hydrate and support a healthy scalp environment.
As always, scalp care is supportive. If there is an underlying medical cause for your changing density, scalp products don't replace appropriate diagnosis and treatment.
Be gentle with the hair you have
When hair feels thinner, our instinct can sometimes be to style it more aggressively to create volume.
Try to avoid unnecessary tension, very tight hairstyles and excessive heat, and be gentle when brushing and detangling.
The goal isn't to become frightened of touching your hair. It's simply to minimise unnecessary damage to the hair you have.
Camouflage your part
Sometimes a very simple cosmetic change can make an enormous difference.
Scalp powders, hair fibres and coloured camouflage products can reduce the contrast between your hair and scalp, making a widening part appear less noticeable. Cosmetic camouflage products are recognised options for managing the appearance of female pattern hair loss.
Changing where you place your part or adjusting your styling can sometimes help too.
These things aren't treating the reason your density has changed, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting an immediate cosmetic solution while you investigate the cause.
And this is exactly where hair pieces can be wonderful
You don't need to wait until you have significant hair loss before wearing a hair piece.
In fact, a widening part is one of the areas where a very small amount of additional hair can make an enormous visual difference.
If you only need targeted coverage, something as small and lightweight as a Stella Essentials Part/Hairline Piece may be enough to disguise visible scalp and add density exactly where you need it.
If the area is larger or you would like more fullness through the top of your hair, one of our Stella Luxe toppers may be more appropriate.
And this is where my “less is more” philosophy really comes into play.
The goal isn't to put an enormous amount of hair on your head.
It's to work out where you're missing the density you once had and replace only what you need so the finished result still feels like your hair.
You can investigate it and cover it
These two things don't have to compete.
You can speak to your GP or dermatologist. You can investigate why your density has changed. You can treat an underlying condition if one is identified. You can support your scalp and take care of your existing hair.
And you can also cover your part today if doing that makes you feel more confident.
One doesn't make the other less important.
For me, the best approach to changing hair is understanding what's happening underneath while also recognising that how we feel when we look in the mirror matters too.
Not sure what kind of coverage you need?
Head to What’s Right for Me?
Or, if you'd like someone to look at your hair with you, you can Book a Stella consultation.
This article provides general educational information only and isn't intended to diagnose or treat a medical condition. New, sudden, patchy, progressive or otherwise concerning hair loss should be discussed with your GP, dermatologist or another appropriately qualified health professional.
